Hi all!
Wow, life's been hectic this year! Sorry I haven't been around. I'm dealing with the ever present feeling of "ahhh I took on too much" and barely hanging in there to get things done on time. As well as retreating into safer spaces like games in my free time to escape. So some things like the blog have been kicked to the wayside.
Anyway, I have some extra time today, so I wanted to write a bit about some common issues I'm seeing with the photo show I'm currently judging (Crescent Cove show on OMHPS). I will be using my own pictures just to be fair to everyone of course! I hope these tips help folks make improvements for future shows. I do understand though that it can be more sustainable to do smaller batches here and there if you have a large show string, so don't feel pressured to fix everything at once!
We'll mainly be focusing on "studio" style photos here - plain & simple sets that showcase the model alone and do not attempt a foray into realism. Both styles of sets can be created for indoor or outdoor use. However, studio styles are more accessible to play with when you are learning about photography for photo shows, so I'll be referring to them. Note that some tips can also apply to realistic setups though!
Photo Angle
One of the easiest changes you can make is simply to correct the angle of your photos. Ideally, you want to focus the top of the "horizon" (whether there's one visible or not) around the withers of your model, and do your best to avoid holding the camera at an angle that distorts the model's proportions. The most common angle issues I see are images taken from a little bit too high or a little too low.
When your angle is too low, you end up feeling like you're "looking up" at the model when looking at the photo. On the opposite end, an angle taken too high "looking down" on a model also creates an uncanny feeling. To practice, try taking pics of the same model from different angles and compare them blown up on your computer.
Also within the angle category, for most models it is best to display the horse full on sideways. There are exceptions, such as sitting on laying models, models with wings or other complex fantasy elements, or those that are sharply turning such as Nokota (in his case, turning him a bit can help the resulting pic look more proportional). If the horse's head is turned at all, the direction the head faces should be towards the camera. Some shows, including the one I'm judging now, count models photographed in any orientation besides flat-on side as a fault in cases where it's not necessary like with the caveats above.
Placement of Model on SetAnother common issue I am seeing is models that are too close to the photo backdrop. Moving the horse further forward can help to avoid some of the shadows that are cast when the horse is too close to the back. Understandably, not everyone has a spot that is deep enough to do this successfully, but if you do, it's a small change that helps a lot!
Backdrop Color & Details
This one is more aimed towards those who do studio backgrounds! In experimenting over the past few years, I've learned that the absolute best colors for studio pictures are light neutral sand and light neutral gray tones. White can run the risks of overexposure, blending into the background of lighter models, and if too bright the model can look like it's floating in blank space.
When it comes to materials, you want to focus on options that have little to no variation in texture & pattern, or have a very tiny basic pattern that's not visually distracting. For towels, blankets, thicker fabrics, it's important to be careful of the fluff obstructing view of hooves. In some shows, like the one I'm judging now, hooves hidden or partially hidden by the footing/set is grounds for knocking down in ranks because the obstructions could be hiding flaws.
Another easy fix for backdrops/sets is to iron thin fabrics or smooth out folds on thicker fabrics.
The same setup, with the sheet ironed! Much better!
My next tip is "hiding the horizon". Whether you use a "continuous" set where the same material is used for the footing and background, or separate pieces for each, the ability to minimize the transition between the two can be an asset to your results. In realistic setups, this is often where folks will use a fence, shrubbery, or other physical items to accent the break between the footing and background.
It's not bad to have a transition between two materials - in some cases, this can help anchor your model in the space and avoid feeling like it's floating in a void. However, the two materials for the purposes of a studio space should be similar in color and tone so it does not become distracting. A strong line will be more difficult to set the level of your photo on if your model is a bit off in angle, also see below.
Lighting & Shadows!
Not all shadows are bad! Having a few very soft shadows will also help orient your model in the space and avoid that "floating in void" feeling I brought up earlier. The most important element of shadows is to avoid harsh and sharp ones. A photo that is too dark in the foreground will also lower visibility to details of the model.
If you are using natural/outdoor lighting, an overcast or mostly cloudy day is best to properly represent your model's color and avoid harsh shadows.
Indoor lighting is best when you can control the temperature of the lighting (natural, warm, or cool) and you are able to move the lights around to get to an optimal position. Ring lights and other small lights meant for content creation are often inexpensive and flexible in placement (some come with clamps, extendable tripods, etc.) For matte models, lighting like this is often sufficient when well placed and there's enough of it. Glossy models may need extra care (playing with lighting placement, further diffusion, etc.) to get good shots.
At minimum, I recommend at least two lights you can place yourself and a general overhead light source. Additional overhead lighting that you can manipulate and other fill lighting may enhance your set.
A glimpse at my current setup - two ring lights on natural setting, plus the overhead room light
Here is how the pics turn out when the ring lights are off
Even if you have good overall lighting, it's still important to pay attention to how your lighting is showing off individual models. Dark models especially present the challenge of capturing their details well. Here's an example of one of my black Stretch Morgans. In the first pic, he was in natural lighting on my porch. While the overall lighting is good, you can't see his face very well.
Cropping, Framing, & Editing
The post-process is also an important step! To give yourself less work later, you can set yourself up well by framing the shot skillfully when taken. You don't want too much empty space around the model, but you also don't want the pic to feel squeezed by having the horse too close to the edges either. If your set is fairly small, position your models so you can edit out the edges if you need to.
Overall, you want your model to clearly be the subject of the photo and draw in that attention! Whether by framing or cropping later, the model should take up the majority of space. This also helps judges assess your model fairly.
Evenly spaced cropping is key as well! Try to keep roughly the same amount of empty space around each edge of the photo from the point on the model that sticks out furthest. For Maximus, I'd go by the bobs for the top, his tail and heel for the right edge, foreleg for the bottom, and his head for the left.
Here is the same photo cropped. You do not need to get super exact here, but rely on what looks balanced to your eye.
As far as other editing goes, most shows frown on too much post-work. Crops, leveling, and other super basic functions should be the extent of your cleanup. Adjusting things like brightness, sharpness, color tone and the like may tow the line and if in doubt ask your show host. Obvious retouching to remove flaws would result in disqualification in pretty much any show I've ever participated in. You are also not to edit your model onto a digital background (would also be a DQ). These issues aren't something I'm seeing in my judging now, but they're always worth bringing up as a reminder to newcomers.
Wrap Up!
I hope some of these tips are helpful! Remember, even if you can't make all of these changes right away or some may be impossible for you even later, the best you can do to improve is still awesome :) These changes, if you can work on them, will help your entries to be more competitive and allow your models to be judged more on the merits of the class and not get knocked down in placings due to photo faults (in shows that place importance on photo quality). My goal is to make my own job as a judge harder xD
In conclusion, I'll feature one more photo from my current setup and make note of all the practices I've applied! I still have things to learn myself, but at this point I am confident in the basics. :) Oh, and I only use my phone with the standard settings. I don't have a fancy camera nor do I mess with the more detailed settings on my phone.
1. Photo angle - horse looks well proportioned and the view does not feel too high or too low
2. Placement on set - horse is well placed away from the background to avoid shadows on wall
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